Saturday, 9 July 2022

Original Pattern : Latest Style Basquine Peterson's Magazine 1856

Today's post is a beautiful Basquine pattern from Peterson's Magazine 1856.  Enjoy!

 To save a large version of the pattern left click on the image (this is important otherwise you will save the smaller version) and then right click and select save image.

We give, this month, as part of our series, " How To Make One's Dress," a pattern for a new and fashionable Basquine, with accompanying diagrams by which it may be cut. In a former number, we gave directions how the diagrams were to be enlarged, but may as well, probably, re-state them. Take a newspaper, to lay out the angles, and project the lines, making these last of the length stated in each diagram. For example, begin, with diagram No. I, at the extreme right hand lower corner, and make the the curved line upward, which is to be twenty inches long; then draw the bottom line, twenty-eight and three-quarter inches, and so around to the point of starting. In a similar manner, draw all the others. This Basquine is to be made of black moire cloth, or the same material of the dress. It is to be open in front. The following is a description of the diagrams.

DIAGRAM NO. I.-} No. 1. Front. No. 2. Side-piece of back. No. 3. Wristband

DIAGRAN NO. 2. -} No. 4. Back. No. 5. Sleeve.

The places for the medallions and the buttons are marked on each of the patterns. The Basquine must be lined with silk of a light contrasting color, and trimmed all round the body,skirt, and sleeves by a ruche of silk like the lining, which is sewed on the edge and reaches a little beyond; the sleeves very wide, begin at....

 top in hollow plaits, four of which are fastened down under a button tassel. The fronts are held together by cords forming loops; or frogs with tassels and buttons, then a waistband and bow closes the body at the waist. On the waist behind also are put two tassels with buttons, and, lastly, on the front of the body and round the skirt, an open-work trimming representing lozenge-shaped medallions, a beautiful ornamentation.


Monday, 27 June 2022

Original Pattern : Chinese collar and Sleeved Talma for a little girl 1857

Two patterns today.  The sleeved Talma looks interesting so I might try making it up for my daughter.  If i do I'll update this page.  In the meantime enjoy these two patterns from Peterson's Magazine 1857.

We give, this month, a design for a novel style of collar, called "The Chinese Collar." The annexed engraving shows how it looks when made up. It is composed of two rows of application, and three tufts of very narrow ribbon are put on the front. The diagram, on the next page, No 8, shows how it is to be cut. We also give a diagram for cutting a Sleeved Talma for a little girl of nine or ten years old.

No 1 Front containing also the sleeve. No 2 Back. No 3 Collar. 

After joining the two parts by the shoulder seam from A to B you must fix the part from C to D of No 2 on the line of +++++++ from C to D marked on No 1, then the part bearing 000 on the neck also accompanied by 000.

Sunday, 26 June 2022

Original Pattern : The Algerine Shawl Mantle Peterson's Magazine 1857

I'm planning on putting together a few resources to help make finding original patterns from the 1850s - 1860s a bit easier than having to scan through thousands of pages on online books and other sources. I'll be putting together a couple of pinterest boards on the subject and also sharing many patterns on this blog.  If I attempt to make any myself I'll also share the results :)

This pattern is for The Algerine Shawl Mantle from Peterson's Magazine 1857.


Our pattern this month for our department "How To Make One's Own Dresses" the is Shawl Mantle, the prettiest affair which been produced, this season, in Paris. It is extremely easy to be made; and comparatively economical also. It is made of black taffetas. The form is half square, hollowed to the form of the neck, with a small plait taken out at the neck on each side, to make it fit well on the shoulder. On the taffetas, at equal distances, are rows of guipure insertion with narrow waved stripes of velvet woven in it; it is called velvet guipure: the taffetas is cut from underneath, leaving the insertion transparent; at each side the insertions are finished with a narrow guipure edging, lightly ornamented with jet. The rows of insertion are so arranged as to give the appearance a square shawl; the edges are trimmed with fringe of silk and jet; a second row of fringe is on in the middle of mantle, where the insertions are reversed. On the next page we give a diagram by which mantle may be cut out. The three pieces of which the pattern consists is half the mantle; manner of joining them together is indicated by cuts in each piece, which are to be placed opposite each other; for instance, the two pieces which have one cut in them must be joined together; this part forms the front of the pattern; the bottom must have a corner joined on, of the same size and form as marked by the pricked line. The smaller piece, which forms the corner at the back of mantle is indicated by two cuts, which must be joined to the two cuts at the back of the mantle; this completes the pattern. This would be a very good pattern for a plain velvet shawl, or may be trimmed in various styles.

Tuesday, 29 August 2017

CDV of an 1860s sheer dress

This CDV is of a young women in a sheer dress with some lovely details including her hair, bracelets and watch & chain. A handwritten note on the back reads "Mrs Ma... (Mackline?) was Miss Smith my god mother".  The photographer is Prestwich of Castle Street, Reading.  I haven't been able to find out much about the photographer other than he was in business in 1863 which ties in well with my dating of the CDV of around 1863-65.

Tuesday, 22 August 2017

Two named CDVs

Here are two CDVs from my collection where I am lucky enough to have the subjects names.  First is a photograph of Dora Jowitt with her mother with a date that I believe to be 1868.  The photographer is T . Coleman of Brunswick Place London which fits in with the dating of mid-late 1860s.

The second CDV is of Miss Diana Coke.  Normally I wouldn't buy a CDV in such poor and faded condition but she is such a cutie I couldn't resist her.  There is no photographer markings to help date her but judging from what we can see of her dress and hair I'd say mid 1860s. I love the large tasselled bows on her sleeves and her cute little basket :)

Sunday, 20 August 2017

1860s CDV of family group

Today we have another CDV for your viewing delight from my personal collection. The photographer is Sam Glen Payne of New Road, Aylesbury which dates the image around 1864-1865. It's rare to have such a large family group photo on a CDV and what I particularly love about it is the little boy has a fringe (or bangs as my american friends would say).

Saturday, 19 August 2017

Mid 1860s CDV

I'm back! :D Blimey, I can't believe it's been three years since I last updated this blog.  Apologies for those waiting for the apron pattern update - I managed to loose the pattern piece and 90% of the tutorial has been sitting on here waiting to be posted for a couple of years.  If I find the pattern piece and/or the remaining tutorial photos I'll post an update.  In the meantime here is one of the CDVs from my personal collection - a lovely lady c.1863-65.  The CDV unfortunately has no photographers mark on the back. I love the ruched trim on her bodice and the use of the delicate lace to accentuate it.